Week 1
Lesson 1 - Markers
The clearer you can be with your ‘mechanics’ and communication, the faster your dog will learn.
A ‘marker’ lets you reward the exact moment your dog gave you the behaviour you’re looking for. You ‘mark’ the moment with a word like ‘good’ or ‘yes’ or even a clicker, and reward your dog within a second or so.
The release cue “free” or “ok” is also important, it tells your dog their work is finished for the moment and they can relax or get up and move.
Here’s a more detailed tutorial on teaching “Nose Touch” if you haven’t taught this before or would like a refresher!
Lesson 2 - Boundaries or settle/place training
The beginnings of teaching an off switch, helping your dog learn to settle.
We add a verbal cue next week, this week work on building the love of going to the bed and being rewarded for staying there until released!
Lesson 3 - Intro to Middle/Straddle
Teach your dog to stand or sit between your feet. A great safe space for worried dogs, an alternative to recall, lowers energy and arousal.
Next week, we add the verbal cue.
Lesson 4 - Sit/Drop/Stand beginnings
Work on a really solid sit first, with a clear verbal cue and hand signal.
Lure your dog through the 3 positions, no cue just body movement so they find it easy to switch to each position.
If you’re having trouble with a drop or stand, we work more on these in week 2 & 3.
Lesson 5 - Recall!
Lesson 5a - games to help with Recall
“Funder” is a fast, fun, high energy game that builds value in running straight and fast to you.
Lesson 6 - beginning impulse control
This is a gamechanger - teach your dog that moving towards food in your hand means he won’t get it, but if he backs away you can deliver a treat. Your goal is to be able to open your hand long enough to deliver the treat.
Demo dog Chip knows this game so he makes it look easy - if your dog hasn’t done this before be patient! It can take many seconds for your dog to realise that mugging you for treats won’t work, it’s actually backing away that will earn a reward, this is counterintuitive to most dogs so give them time to work it out.
The key to success here is to keep your hand very steady. If your dog moves towards your hand, close your fist so he can’t get the food, if he moves away it means you can open your hand. It can be counter-intuitive for your dog, but once he realises this you’re on your way! The goal is for your dog to move away from your hand for long enough for you to calmly deliver a treat.
Week 1 - wrap up and homework
Bonus - helping your dog learn to settle and build an “off switch” is often the first step in improving many behaviour struggles.
“Funder”, “Mouse Game”, “Orientation Game”, “Cone Game”, “Magic Hand” and the words “Boundary Games” are inspired by Absolute Dogs UK. Veronica is an Absolute Dogs Pro Dog Trainer.